Home Appliances

Caring for household appliances is an activity that is easy bother. Difficult and sometimes even activities that could be annoying if we do not know how but it will be easy and practical when we know how to care for home appliances right. Therefore this time we will give you tips about how to clean household appliances.

How to Remove Stains on the Wall / Wallpaper

One of the annoying stains and making confused how clean it is dirty stain on the wall / wallpaper, stain is common on the bottom wall or wallpaper for dirty old shoe attached, former flooded and dirty water splashes or soil. and how to eliminate the unpleasant sights? with household appliances become easy, the way is to mix cornstarch with water, stir once in you can start to clean it with water the cornstarch mixture, rubbing the walls or wallpaper with a toothbrush and a more powerful is with pure baking soda, yap like to cook but baking soda or baking soda is pure pure that you can get at various supermarkets.

How to clean the glass window

Glass is a material that is in many household appliances and when it will dull very unsightly, and how to clean the glass material that is easy and practical? again not difficult, you can use household appliances around the house. The trick is to prepare a bottle of face tonic that you normally use to freshen your face after wearing makeup and old newspapers, just pour a few drops of tonic and wiped his face wearing old newspapers, you can restore the luster of glass housewares you with an easy and practical.

How to Clean Bath

The tub is one of the fast housewares dirty, can occur because of hard water deposits or soap remnants that are not affordable to be cleaned. Easy to clean, just with pure baking soda mixed with water and pour evenly gets dirty and start scrubbing with a toothbrush or a material such as a towel, if you do not have a pure baking soda can also use regular soap you use to wash dishes and brush secondhand gear to reach the corners that are difficult to achieve.

How to Eliminate Odor In Fridge

Deodorize refrigerators can in many ways, but there is a very practical way, by putting pure baking soda into the fridge, put to use open container or that have small holes that will be useful as the odor towing, no need to worry, pure baking soda is a safe material because it is pure ingredients to make the cake really. To further eliminate odors ice cupboard you can also routinely clean the contents of the fridge, do not have rotting food in the refrigerator or open canned food, canned food should be fed into a strong plastic that is tied, such as cat food or corned beef.

You have a shining, gleaming stainless steel and a kitchen that fairly sparkles. Then, it happens. Somehow there is an ugly scratch on the stainless steel refrigerator, oven, or dishwasher, and you can see it from across the room. It's just about as obvious as a blemish on prom night. But you can restore your stainless steel appliances to their former beauty.

Instructions

1 Assess the damage. Determine if this is a deep scratch or a surface scratch, by running your finger across it. If you can actually feel the indentation, you have a deep scratch, gouge or ding. With clamps, carefully hold a small piece of dry ice over the gouged area. Hopefully,it will pop out, and not be as noticeable. Then you can treat it in the same way other scratched areas are treated in the steps below.
2 Determine if the scratched appliance is "real" stainless steel or if it has a synthetic coating or finish. Damage to coated appliances is permanent.
These are all coated: Whirlpool - "Satina;" GE - "Clean Steel;" Amana - "Ultra Finish Steel;" Kitchenaid - Architect Series II, "Monochromatic Stainless;" Kenmore - "Ultra Satin;" Frigidaire - "Titanium;" Electrolux (all brands except "Classic," "Icon" and "Electrolux"); Maytag - "Silver Ultra Finish," "Satina Stainless Look," "Monochromatic Stainless steel," "Monochromatic Satina."
Also,coated stainless steel doesn't smudge easily, and is magnetic. You will only further damage the surface if you use a rubbing compound, or a product like Scratch-B-Gone, on a synthetic or clear-coated finish. If your appliance is coated, you cannot fix the damage.
3 Identify the existing grain of the stainless steel. See which direction the tiny original brush lines go in the damaged area.
4 Use an abrasive pad from the Scratch-B-Gone kit to repair scuffs, light scratches and even deep scratches. The kit has 4 different abrasive pads and instructions to tell you which one to use depending on the severity of the scratches and scuffs. Otherwise, go to an automotive shop and buy different fine grades of sandpaper.
5 Apply a small amount of Ultra Shine from the Scratch-B-Gone kit onto the appropriate abrasive pad. Or use an automotive rubbing compound on the sandpaper.
6 Begin rubbing the damaged area of the stainless steel in the direction of the grain covering over about a 5-inch area at a time. Slide the pad backward and forward increasing pressure as needed until you see the scratch is disappearing.
7 Repeat this process until the scratch is removed and the surface is restored. For a deeper scratch, dry rub the area with the coarse pad, and wipe area off with a microfiber cloth to make sure the scratch is gone.
8 Blend the metal surfaces by using the finest grade sandpaper or abrasive pad with the rubbing compound or Ultra Shine and gradually increase the area around the original damage to about three times the original scratched area. Be sure to go with the existing grain of the stainless steel so you don't create crosshatching.

Harnessing the wind to generate electricity is often cheap and easy. You can build a simple wind turbine to power small appliances or to complement your home's power. Some experience or expertise with electronics is helpful, but anyone can learn the basics of what it takes to build your own windmill.

Instructions

1 Cut the PVC pipe into four pieces.These will be your blades. Your generator needs only three blades; the fourth blade will be a spare. For shorter or longer blade lengths, your pipe should be one-fifth as thick as it is long. For example, if the PVC pipe is 50 cm long, it should be 10 cm in diameter. Shape the blade into a rectangular base to attach it to the generator, and cut it at an angle lengthwise to make it look like an airplane wing. You may also use a sander to smooth out the shape and make it rounder.
2 Create a wind vane by attaching the heavy sheet aluminum upright to the back of your two by four piece of wood. This will help the turbine to face the wind and will serve as the tail of the wind turbine.
3 Connect the blades to a round hub at an equal distance from each other. You need a hub with a hole that can easily fit into the motor shaft of the wind generator motor. You can find one at your local hardware or home supply store. It should have enough space to bolt the three PVC pipe blades. Use at least two bolts on each blade, making sure they are evenly spaced and lined up toward the center of the hub.
4 Bolt the wind generator motor to the opposite end of the wind turbine's tail and cover it with PVC pipe to protect it from the weather.
5 Mount the tail and wind generator motor to the 10 feet of steel conduit. This will be the pole of your windmill.
6 Bolt the hub and the blades to the wind generator motor shaft and wind tail.
7 Connect the wind generator motor to an external controller for wind power systems which can easily be found on eBay. This will allow you to connect a battery and an inverter to plug-in appliances. Run the cable from the motor through the conduit pipe hole down to the ground and to the external controller.

If you're about to buy a house, most lenders want to know what amperage the wiring is. 60-amp service is not adequate anymore. Even insurance companies consider the smaller amperage a liability. Today's homes, with the heavy variety of electrical appliances and gadgets, require a larger service, like 100 amp.

Identification

You can identify 100-amp service house wiring by looking at the main circuit breaker. It identifies the service by its amperage. The main circuit breaker is in the box above the other breakers. It controls the flow of electricity from the outside power lines. You use this breaker to shut off all the electricity in the house at one time.

Size

Don't let the number on smaller breakers in the box fool you. They may total more than 100. Electricians put in the breakers for specific areas. If a breaker says 15 amps, usually the load is only about 80 percent of that amount. The logic for so many breakers is that you'll probably not use everything at once, and they don't load all the breakers to full capacity.

Function

Determine how much of a load you place on one of the circuits by calculating the amount of amps they use. For instance, an iron has a wattage rating of 1200. A portable heater has a rating of 1500. You divide the wattage rating by 120 volts to convert it to amperes. The iron is 10 and the electric heater is 12.5. If they both were on the same 15 amp circuit and turned on at the same time, they overload the circuit and the circuit breaker clicks to the off position.

Warning

Circuit breakers have a purpose in a 100-amp house wiring service. They prevent overload of electrical flow and potentially a fire. Before you reset the breaker, find out what caused the overload in the first place. It might be a short in a wire or a bad ground requiring repair, or just too heavy a load on the circuit.

Grounding

Check the grounding of the 100-amp service in your home. There's a main ground wire from the box that usually connects to a metal water pipe and a metal grounding wire buried outside in the ground, which gives the excess current a direct path to travel into the ground. Each outlet, ceiling box and switch in the house also has a grounding system. Grounding prevents you from getting a shock if there's an abnormal flow from a short circuit. It also prevents fires. In damp areas, make sure that your 100-amp service has GFCI breakers for additional safety.

Considerations

If you're installing 100-amp service, why not upgrade for future use? Often the 200-amp panels are cheaper because there's more of them sold. This accommodates for expansion and changes in code that may occur in the future. Check the prices before you begin your project.

Although technology has progressed greatly in the 12-volt appliance market, many mobile individuals still find themselves with the need to utilize 110-volt AC-powered equipment such as blenders, mixers, televisions, and other devices that may only be plugged into a wall outlet found in a building. The car's electrical outlets are generally cigarette lighter-styled receptacles, and the DC power of these outlets must be converted into alternating current (AC) to run the desired appliances. Modern technology has progressed in making this car-outlet conversion possible.

Instructions

1 Determine a location along the bottom of your dash where you desire to mount your power inverter, making sure the mount location isn't too far away to prevent plugging the device into the nearest cigarette lighter outlet.
2 Screw in the self-tapping screws that came with your power inverter. Drive the screws through the mount's screw holes and into the lower dash trim.
3 Insert the inverter's cigarette lighter adapter plug into the 12-volt cigarette lighter receptacle and turn the inverter switch to the on position. Observe the power indicator light to ensure the unit is receiving power. Depending on your vehicle, you may have to turn the ignition switch on to power the lighter receptacle.
4 Plug in your appliance into one of the three-pronged outlets on the inverter and use the appliance as you normally would at home.

Incorporating a hodgepodge of appliances into your kitchen and bathroom can be a decorating nightmare. Hiding your kitchen and bath appliances gives your home a less-cluttered, more natural look and frees up valuable counter space for food prep in the kitchen and washing in the bathroom. Whatever your budget, it's possible to hide your appliances to create the decorative look and uncluttered space you crave.

Instructions

1 Disguise large kitchen appliances behind closed doors. Attaching cabinetry panels to your appliances can help them disappear into your decorating scheme.
2 Hide countertop microwaves, mixers, toasters and other small kitchen appliances inside kitchen cabinets. Make sure the microwave can be pulled onto the counter before using, to provide adequate ventilation.
3 When cabinet space is unavailable, hide small kitchen appliances in a rolling kitchen island. Lock the wheels for an island in the center of your kitchen. Roll the island to a counter near outlets when you are ready to use the appliances.
4 Use a microwave cabinet or cart where space is available and use the storage space for small kitchen appliances. If the microwave area is an open space and you'd like to disguise it, throw a pretty cloth over it when it's not in use, or prop a picture or a sign in front that can easily be removed when you use the microwave.
5 Hide large bathroom appliances, such as water heaters or washer-dryer units, behind a folding screen that is easily removed for access.
6 Disguise smaller bathroom appliances like blow-dryers, curling irons, and electric razors in a cabinet. Place the cabinet as close to an outlet as possible for ease of appliance use.
7 Use creative appliance storage in larger bathrooms. Add a dresser or chest just for blow-dryers, curling irons and other items. Use an armoire for even more storage.

When an appliance breaks down beyond repair, you may not simply throw the item in the trash can or set it on the curb and wait for garbage pickup. Because household appliances often carry toxic waste, such as Freon and mercury, they pose a danger to the environment if placed in a landfill. Recycle your broken appliances. By recycling you will cut down on landfill use, reduce pollution and lower energy consumption.

Instructions

1 Contact your utility company to determine if they have a rebate program for recycling household appliances. Some utility companies offer a rebate for large appliances.
2 Contact your local waste removal municipality to see if they offer curbside appliance recycling. Some local municipalities offer a day of the week for large recycling pick up.
3 Locate a local appliance recycling facility if your area does not offer curbside pick up. Use the directory on Earth911.com to find a center in your area.
4 Prep the appliance for recycling. Clean the appliance. Remove any food items, lint or other disposables.
5 Remove the doors. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the door in place on large appliances like refrigerators, washing machines and dryers. Removing the door will prevent small children or animals from trapping themselves inside of the appliance.
6 Ensure all of the parts are included. Check to make sure the drawers, shelves, lint traps or any other removable part is inside of the appliance.
7 Place the appliance on the curb outside of your home on the designated day if you are using curbside recycling removal.
8 Take the appliance to a recycling center. Use a truck or small trailer to transport the appliance. Get assistance from another person to lift the appliance onto the truck or trailer. Ensure the appliance is secure and no fluids are leaking before transporting it to the center.

Electrical appliances are not just bulky additions to a landfill. These items are hazardous to the environment when disposed of incorrectly. Taking the time to recycle appliances that no longer work properly will prevent refrigerants and mercury from leaking into the atmosphere and keep your appliance from becoming a cumbersome addition to already overcrowded dumps.

Instructions

1 Determine whether the appliance is in good working condition or needs only minor repairs. If this is the case, list the item on websites such as Craigslist or Freecycle where others in your community may look for just such an appliance. You may also donate working appliances to Goodwill or the Salvation Army.
2 Contact the dealer of the appliance. Whether the appliance is still working or not, the original dealer may have detailed information on how to recycle the appliance properly. In some cases, they may pick up the item for you. The retailer that you purchased the appliance from may be able to offer this service as well.
3 Contact your electric utility and inquire about bounty programs for electrical appliances. Most programs have restrictions on the size and type of appliances that can be accepted if this type of program exists.
4 Locate a recycling center in your area that accepts electrical appliances. Information provided by the Steel Recycling Institute or United States Environmental Protection Agency may be able to help you find a nearby site that can accept your appliance.

Purchasing new appliances can be exciting and frustrating. Focus attention on your top picks by using a rating system that will identify your needs, the necessary features of various models, the appliance efficiency and reliability, and, of course, the price range. Use online searches, consumer reports and blog sites; customer comments; and even the help line of the various manufacturers before making your final decision. Appliances are long-term investments, and a little homework in advance can save huge headaches later.

Instructions

1 Over-sized appliances waste energy and money. The appliance you buy should suit your needs.
Size should be the first factor when considering purchasing new appliances. Determine the space available for the new equipment before making a selection.
Measure the height and width of the space with a metal tape measure. Draw a sketch of the area, and write all of the measurements on the sketch.
2 Features and use will be the next step in eliminating some models.
Refrigerators with ice/water dispensers, side-by-side doors, freezer drawers or trim kits for a built-in look are features to consider.
Electric or gas ranges and cook tops should be purchased depending on the amount of use the appliance will have. Added features include spill-proof tops, warming drawers, and thermal or convection ovens.
Microwaves can be built-in or countertop models and may combine convection oven cooking and built-in exhaust fans.
Dishwashers and laundry appliances should be purchased to meet the needs of the household. Added features can include sound insulation, digital delay starters, timers and light load capabilities.
3 Energy efficiency can be determined with most new electric appliances by checking for the Energy Star label and reviewing the Energy Guide Rating Sheet attached to the appliance. The rating is an estimate of the cost to operate that particular appliance. Ratings are based on the average use of an electric appliance.
Gas appliances are generally more efficient and cost less to run than comparably sized electric appliances. The most efficient dishwashers and clothes washers use less water and will have an energy-saving setting.
4 Price seems to be the easiest method to rate appliances until you realize that this is a long-term investment and all of the associated costs need to be considered. With an estimated life expectancy of 10 to 15 years, the least expensive appliance may cost more to run and to maintain.
The most expensive appliances may not be the most efficient or the most practical. Commercial ovens look great and cook well but are seldom well insulated and can have very expensive repair costs. Side-by-side refrigerators are efficient and easy to use but consume 10 to 15 percent more energy than a freezer on top model.
Check the Energy Star Rebate Locater online to see if your new appliance will qualify for a rebate or tax credit.
5 Make your top three selections for each appliance and visit their websites. Websites list estimated prices, and many have charts for additional features available with each model. Brand name appliances have consumer comments and will list repair concerns for most of the products.
Check independent consumer reports on each of the appliances to determine what to expect from customer service calls.

Three-phase appliances can be difficult or impossible to integrate into a home-electrical system. Energy providers do not typically hook up three-phase power for normal residential customers. Nevertheless, you may purchase a three-phase power converter to run a three phase appliance off of your single phase electrical service. These converters are expensive and the expense may not be justified. These considerations should be made before purchasing any three-phase appliance for use in a single-phase electrical system.

Instructions

1 Determine the exact power requirements of your three-phase grill. Based on these requirements, you will have to choose a three-phase converter that will allow your grill to start safely and operate smoothly and at full power. Consult a service technician familiar with your appliance for advice.
2 Install or isolate a dedicated circuit for the appliance and inverter. All large home appliances with large power requirements should have a separate protected circuit, and this type is no exception. If you are unfamiliar with your home-electrical system, consult an electrician to help you determine whether you need to install an additional dedicated circuit for your three phase grill. Do not attempt to run a three-phase appliance on a branch circuit shared with other appliances, receptacles or devices.
3 Once you have a circuit available that will meet the power needs of your converter and grill, the converter must be installed. Hooking up your converter can be a complicated and difficult procedure. Depending on the type of converter you will be using, there will be different power-supply requirements, and the converter will be hard-wired, instead of simply being plugged in. Hiring a qualified electrician or service technician may be your best option to ensure that your installation is done safely and correctly.

Home appliances saw exciting changes during the 1950s. Manufacturers turned their attention to the home after the war and offered technological improvements and innovations in appliances to encourage new purchases for the home. But arguably, the biggest change and buying stimulus in 1950s home appliances involved the introduction of color.

Colors

In 1954, General Electric introduced colored home appliances, in addition to the standard white and chrome. The colors ranged from vibrant red, blue, yellow, turquoise and flamingo pink, to their lighter or pastel counterparts, such as pink and light blue. Colors could be matched or intermixed, and were available for both small and large appliances. Advertising of the time followed suit, selling these new colored appliances through vibrant full-color ads, in contrast to earlier black and white ads.

Small Appliances

The kitchen was the center of domestic activity in the 1950s, and small appliances of the time made preparation for family meals and general entertaining easier. Hand and stand mixers were essential to the 1950s kitchen, as was the blender. In fact, blenders were so necessary due to the popularity of the 1950s cocktail party that some were built into counters in newer kitchens. Toasters, kettles and coffee percolators were also staples in most 1950s kitchens.

Large Appliances

Stoves of the 1950s often featured a double oven and broiler; some were side-by-side with a range on top, while others were built-in with a separate counter range. Refrigerators of the time often featured the freezer on the bottom, but a top freezer was also popular. Still, many 1950s kitchens had smaller refrigerators and a separate "ice box," or freezer. Washers and dryers were increasingly available in the 1950s, but they were not staples of the time due to their high price tags.

Modern Retro Application

"Retro" style is growing in popularity, and 1950s home appliances are in high demand. Vintage 1950s appliances can be found at estate and garage sales, as well as through online auction websites. Modern appliances with the "retro" look, however, are widely available from major appliance manufacturers.

Appliances aid in daily tasks and help you complete home chores more efficiently and with better quality. All homes do not have the same types of appliances because there are so many, but across the board most homes do have appliances that are found in every residence for convenience.

Large Kitchen Appliances

The kitchen is a primary location for appliances both large and small. Larger kitchen appliances include refrigerators and freezers to store food for days or weeks at a time. Kitchens also include cooking appliances such as ovens and stoves to heat and prepare food, from simple dishes to exquisite dinners. Appliances such as dishwashers and garbage disposals aid in cleanup and make life easier.

Small Kitchen Appliances

Small kitchen appliances are mainly luxuries and vary greatly from one home to another. They are portable and can be transported easily and stored away when not in use. These include hand mixers, coffee pots, toasters, crock pots, food processors and blenders. They are lower cost and are frequently offered in colors that suit any kitchen decor and style.

Living Room

The living room is primarily a location for electronics and furniture as opposed to appliances but the primary appliance you will generally find in a living room is a vacuum cleaner. These come in both bagged and bagless varieties and the price spectrum ranges from less than $100 up to $1,000 for higher-end models. Individuals with carpet, instead of hardwood, might also get use out of a steam cleaner to lift dirt and grime, especially in the event of spills.

Other

Some homes have washers and dryers for clothes, which can range in size from portable apartment size to full-sized units built for large families. Dryers are available in both gas and electric varieties, depending on the home's structure. Some homes also employ the use of humidifiers or dehumidifiers to increase the quality of the air. Homes with wood stoves, for example, benefit from humidifiers, and homes near bodies of water may need to remove some of the humidity in the air with a dehumidifier.

Depending on where you live, having a backup generator can make the difference between shivering through a winter power outage or staying warm and toasty while you wait for electricity crews to do their work. Several considerations come into play when thinking about the size, or wattage, of generator that the typical person needs to have at home.

Starting Power vs. Running Power

Some appliances require more power to start running than is needed to keep running. According to Honda Power Equipment, a refrigerator requires 1,200 watts to start and 132 to 192 watts to keep running. Honda notes that these numbers are only for the Energy Star-rated version---non-rated refrigerators require more power than that. Numbers for 19 different household appliances are listed in a wattage guide, including subsections under appliances such as computers, televisions and microwave ovens.

Portable or Stationary?

The choice between portable or stationary comes down to what you need the generator for. If it is merely to run essential appliances---refrigerator, furnace, stove and lights---for a short amount of time, then a portable generator may be the best bet. These generators have outputs ranging from 1,000 watts (the Yamaha EF1000ISC) up to 17,500 watts (the Generac Guardian Ultra Source).
Stationary generators are usually hooked into natural gas or oil lines and wired directly into the electrical system of your home. These behemoths output well into several thousand kilowatts of power for almost infinite amounts of time. The Carrier brand 35-45kW Air-Cooled Home Standby Generator, for example, outputs a running wattage of 26kW to power a 5,000-square-foot home. Generators this size are best used for either long periods of time or for large power needs.

What Are You Powering?

Honda Power Equipment makes much of a concept it calls "Power Management," which relies on three considerations---importance, running time and number---to effectively use small generators.
In Honda Power Equipment's example, a refrigerator (1,600 starting watts/200 running watts), plus a furnace with a horsepower fan (1,600 starting watts/600 running watts), plus a television (300 watts flat), a microwave (1,500 watts flat) and five lights (60-watt bulbs = 300 watts) equals to 5,300 watts.
It applies "Power Management" to show that if you start up the refrigerator and furnace at different times, you save one start-up cost of 1,600 watts; and running the microwave only intermittently saves you an occasional 1,500 watts. Thus, your constant power usage is a mere 1,400 watts (television, lights, refrigerator and furnace) and your occasional use is 1,600 watts (intermittent microwave use switched with starting costs of refrigerator and furnace). This means that a 3,000-watt generator would fulfill your power needs, also presenting you with a significant cost savings.
What you're interested in, then, is not the highest total wattage, but rather the wattage that you plan to use on a continuous basis. That number, and whether you want to worry about turning appliances off and on, will determine what size of generator you choose.

Installing 200amp service throughout a house allows for more power usage. However, upgrading to 220V electrical wiring may not be necessary to handle your house's electrical needs unless you are installing electric heat or central air conditioning. Adding new circuit breakers may be all that you need. In most cases, this will allow you to connect additional appliances and electronic equipment that may require 220V. Installing new circuits often corrects the problem of appliances or other electrical devices too large to operate off a single circuit. But if you decide to go ahead and wire your house for 220V, although it may seem like a fairly easy job at first, it does need to be done right. You must think safety, safety and more safety whenever working on any project involving electricity.

Instructions

1 Contact your local building authorities to find out if you need a permit to complete the work. Local building code regulations may vary according to your area of residence. There are also state codes and standards you may be required to follow, most of which are now based on a national model. While 12-gauge wire should be appropriate for most rewiring jobs, check first with your electric power company for any specific requirements or restrictions. For 220V appliances, 10-gauge wire is required.
2 Turn off the power at the main electrical panel box. Use a circuit tester to make sure that the power is off before beginning work. It is crucial that wires not have any power in them. Make sure that no one else can turn on the power while you are working. You might want to hang a warning sign on the panel box so that other household members know that you are working with the wiring. Better yet, lock the box if you can.
3 Determine the number of circuits that you will need. Do this after deciding how many outlets, switches and lighting fixtures will be placed on each circuit. All electrical wires will run from the circuit breaker box. Even if you plan to do the job yourself, you might want to consult first with a qualified electrician for some advice. Use breaker circuits that you are certain can handle 220V wiring.
4 Go up into the attic or crawl space when you are ready to begin, because you will be running wires inside the walls of the house. You will need someone to remain below to assist you from that location. Pull new wire through the walls by tracing the old wire coming from the circuit breaker box. Place the new outlets, switches and lighting fixtures located in each room on a separate circuit to prevent overloading. This may even be required by local building codes.
5 Rewire one room at a time. Use electrical cable with either two or three wires. The type of cable will depend on the types of power plugs different appliances may require.
6 Pull some cable from the receptacle box, allowing about 12 inches to use for wiring in the new receptacle. Strip back the insulation covering on the electric cable wire about 5 inches. You will see copper wiring that you will use for grounding.
7 Strip back the white and black wires about an inch so that you can hook the wires to a new receptacle outlet. Attach the white wire to the steel screw on the outlet; black wire to the copper screw; and copper ground wire to the ground screw positioned at the top of the outlet. If working with cable wire needed for 220V, strip back the red wire and attach directly into the appliance or a special appliance receptacle as per the manufacturer's instructions. These should be color-coded for correct placement.
8 Likewise, attach the black and white wires to the appropriate screws when installing new light switches. You will be working with a black and white wire for a single-pole light switch. When installing a three-way light switch, connect the black wire to the switch. Next, hook up the white wires together, taping them with black electrical tape, and then cap with a wire nut. Twist the copper wires together, leaving the end of one wire a bit longer. Attach that wire to the ground screw at the top of the switch.
9 Call an electrician when it is time to tie the wiring into the service panel box. Even when the main breaker is turned off, there is still power coming into the box to the main breaker. Whether or not you think that you have the ability, unless you are an expert, it is recommended that you not try to do this job yourself. Keep safety on your side and hire someone who works with electricity all the time. You might also want to have your work inspected before turning the electricity back on.

Home appliances make up a significant portion of your annual energy usage and costs. If you are trying to make your home more energy-efficient and environmentally friendly, consider replacing outdated, inefficient appliances with newer, more efficient models. Although your upfront costs may be a bit higher than with less efficient products, the long-term savings will usually compensate for the initial investment.

Types

Energy-efficient products are available for virtually every area of your home, including the kitchen, bathroom, office and laundry room. Green home appliances range from complex heating and cooling systems to simple small appliances. According to the Arizona Public Service Company (APS), heating and cooling equipment and water heaters are the most energy-consuming home appliances, followed by large appliances such as refrigerators, clothes washers and dryers, dishwashers and kitchen ranges. As noted by the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, however, other appliances that are often overlooked, such as small appliances and light fixtures, also use a significant percent of total energy.

Benefits

Energy-efficient appliances offer a variety of benefits for consumers. One of the primary benefits of green appliances is decreased energy costs. According to Energy Savers, Americans spend about 20 percent of their energy costs on appliance operation. The Energy Star label provides an estimated annual energy cost for certified appliances for consumer guidance. In addition to lowered energy costs, green appliances are beneficial for the environment, since they decrease harmful carbon dioxide emissions into the atmosphere, either directly or indirectly.

Shopping Tips

Although it is not the only legitimate certification program, the Energy Star label is usually a dependable way to measure product efficiency. The Energy Star program is jointly operated by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Energy Star--certified appliances are guaranteed to exceed the minimum federal standards for efficiency. The program certifies most types of appliances, with the exception of stove ranges and ovens. Some appliances may also be eligible for tax credits or rebates.

Considerations

In addition to purchasing energy-efficient home appliances, proper usage is also a key component to decreased energy use. Use energy saver options on any appliances you have, such as dishwashers. Keep refrigerators away from heat sources, such as ovens and stove tops. Wash clothes in an appropriately sized load to avoid wasting water and electricity. Finally, have complicated appliances, such as heating and cooling equipment or plumbing appliances, installed by a professional. Improper installation can decrease efficiency and reduce any potential energy savings.

Starting your own appliance repair service is a potentially lucrative and enjoyable venture. It can be operated from home and it can be started for around $10,000 to $50,000. While basic education (and potentially certification, especially at the manufacturer level of expertise) is necessary, and independent contractor savvy aids the startup process, an appliance repair business can be an immediate goal.

Instructions

1 Contact appliance repair associations such as the National Appliance Service Association to find local certification courses.
2 Consider specialized continuing education, such as training in commercial food service and restaurant equipment repair. The videos offered at A1service.com are helpful.
3 Advertise in community ads and telephone book listings, such as Yellow Book Ads, to reach local prospective clientele. You can reach both consumers and commercial prospects by purchasing ad space in multiple listing categories.
4 Determine your hourly rates. You'll need to separate the idea of a yearly income from a yearly salary (as a business owner you'll need to pay for the expenses a regular employer would carry) and determine the personal and business cost of appliance repair.
Use a tool such as Salary.com's salary wizard to figure the average cost of running your business by searching the employer reports. Budget out personal and business costs alongside your total billable time using a rates calculator to determine optimal hourly rates.

Many appliances get rusty spots at some time or another. Refrigerators, stoves, dishwashers, washers, dryers and other household appliances are all prone to rusting. Although appliances have a protective coating that prevents rust, if this coating wears away or there is damage to an appliance, rust may form. The best line of defense is to treat the rust stains when you first notice them and to dry out areas that are prone to rust.

Instructions

1 Scrub off the rust. Take a kitchen scrubbing pad or steel wool and scrub the rust stains. Clean off the area with a sponge or cloth. For surface rust or small stains this may be all that is needed.
2 Apply mineral oil. Using a scrubbing pad apply a small amount of mineral oil to the rust stains. Allow the mineral oil to settle into the rust. Ten or fifteen minutes later, scrub at the rust with steel wool or scrubbing pad. Use soap and water to wash off the rust and the oil residue. Dry the area.
3 Make a rust removing paste. Mix one part lemon juice with two parts borax to make a paste, then apply it to the rust stain on the appliance. Use a scrubbing pad or paper towel to do this. Let the mixture remain on the rust stains for 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the rust, then scrub the stains with a scrubbing pad. Wipe the area clean to remove the rust and the paste. Wipe dry. Use this paste for stubborn rust stains.

A small kitchen can make preparing a simple meal a big headache. Rearrange, de-clutter and maximize your workspace to squeeze more functionality out of a tight kitchen. Small changes that cost little, like changing the direction your refrigerator door opens, can make big a big impact on how well a tiny kitchen functions.

Instructions

1 Clear the clutter on the counter with under cabinet mounted appliances. Small kitchen appliances hog valuable counter space and can be a real eyesore. An under cabinet coffee maker, for instance, can clear up as much as 2 feet of counter space. Look for mounted can openers and microwaves as well.
2 Put small appliances away when youre done with them. Toasters and can openers take up valuable kitchen real estate and need a lot of cleaning to look presentable. Keep your small appliances stored in your kitchen cabinets when not in use.
3 Remove your cabinet doors and hang curtains or arrange open-front displays. Opening and closing your kitchen cabinets requires space -- and sometimes in a small kitchen there's not room for you and the open cabinet door. To reclaim that kitchen space, use cabinet curtains instead. Curtains slide open, requiring no additional space, unlike the swinging action of a kitchen cabinet door. Showcase attractive service pieces on open cabinet shelves.
4 Roll in more counter space. In small kitchens, tiny counter spaces can make cooking projects a nightmare. Consider a rolling kitchen island that can add workspace as well as additional storage. Look for an island with leaves that raise up to make more counter space. When the work is done, fold down the leaves and roll away for storage.

The Great Depression of the 1930s and the war years that followed was a time of sacrifice in America. For more than 15 years, the populace either could not afford new appliances, or the war effort had made the raw materials needed to manufacture such luxuries nonexistent. After the armistice was signed in 1945, weapons factories quickly retooled to meet the growing demand for modern refrigerators and stoves to fill the kitchens of newly built homes.

Color

Advertisers of the era began publishing full-page color ads to entice war-weary citizens to buy the latest in brightly colored kitchen-based time-savers for the modern housewife. Most women were stay-at-home moms who relinquished work outside the home to support returning veterans. Their reward was a bright and cheerful environment in which to work. This meant refrigerators and stoves in bright yellow, robin's-egg blue or mint green with chrome detailing.

Postwar Advances

Arborite and chrome appeared on kitchen tables and countertops to give the kitchen surfaces of the '50s a shiny, easy-to-clean alternative to wood. Cabinets were custom-built to provide a seamless transition from refrigerator to sink and stove. New homes were built with the electricity required to power appliances both large and small. The baby boom was in full swing, and young families appreciated the time savings realized through the use of modern gadgets.

Small Appliances

As well as the colorful new refrigerators and stoves that appeared on the scene, the kitchen of the '50s boasted smaller labor-saving appliances as well. The chrome-plated, pop-up electric toaster made toast timing and surveillance a dying art. Portable electric food mixers and Mixmasters, complete with removable beaters and bowls, replaced their hand-cranked predecessors. Early toaster ovens made preparing TV dinners a breeze. The electric steam iron was much lighter and easier to use than the old cast-iron models.

Prices

Mass production made the appliances of the 1950s affordable to more people than ever before. A gas range could be purchased in New York in 1950 for $144.95. A portable electric food mixer, bought in Wisconsin in 1957, cost $18.95. A 1959 steam iron, purchased in California, cost $9.99. "Cash only" was not the only method of purchase, as it had been in the lean years. Appliances could be purchased immediately and paid for in monthly installments.

Keeping appliances on the counter makes them convenient for use, though visually the effect may not look right, especially when the appliances are mismatched. Counter appliances also become coated in a greasy film of dust due to the cooking oils in kitchen air, so they become a chore to keep clean. You can hide the appliances and make cleaning simpler with appliance covers. Washable covers keep the appliances hidden, ready to use, and dust-free.

Instructions

1 Buy appliance covers in colors coordinated with the kitchen. Alternatively, make appliances covers from pillow cases, laundry bags, tea towels, or small tablecloths.
2 For a decorator touch, drape vintage tea towels over small appliances such as coffee makers, espresso makers, and toasters. Place the plain end of the towel on top of the appliance, and tuck it behind to keep it in place. This way the decorative end of the tea towel hangs in front of the appliance.
3 Slip a pillow case or laundry bag over a large standing mixer. In addition to hiding this larger appliance, the cover helps keep it clean and ready for use by blocking dust, hair, food particles, and other contaminants.
4 Cover the blender with a standard or baby pillow case, depending on the size of the blender. Fold the excess material underneath.
5 Cover a countertop microwave oven with a small tablecloth or dresser scarf. Washable hand-woven fabric also works well for this. Fold the fabric in half if it's too large, and drape it so it hangs over the front and sides of the oven.
6 Slip off the cover to use the appliance, then slip it back on when you're done. Remove the cover completely from the appliance before using, to keep the cover from blocking the appliance's vents.
7 Remove the appliance covers on cleaning days, and shake off the dust outdoors. Toss the covers in the laundry at least twice a month to keep them clean.

Dust off and pack up those unused wedding gifts and impulsively purchased gadgets. The key to organizing a small kitchen is removing unnecessary items and creatively housing essentials. Utilize every possible inch of a small kitchen by organizing storage spaces and clearing counter tops. Use floors, ceilings and walls to support additional storage solutions.

Instructions

Declutter

1 Sort through food items in cabinets and closets. Dispose of expired food, place food that will not be eaten in a donation bin, and temporarily place all other nonperishable food in a box or on the floor.
2 Remove appliances, utensils and dishes from cabinets, closets and drawers. Dispose of, donate or sell any items of which you have duplicates or no longer use. Line other items on the floor or in boxes, ordering them based on frequency of use.
3 Gather cookware and bake ware from current locations. Remove lids and stack pieces that came in sets. Divide your cookware and bake ware into two groups: pieces you frequently use and pieces reserved for special occasions or meals.
4 Remove and relocate misplaced items found on counter tops. Place items that should be stored elsewhere in the kitchen on the floor or in boxes near other items they go with if applicable.
5 Clear unnecessary items from shelves, cabinet tops, tops and sides of refrigerators, and any other spaces where items are stored. Place items belonging elsewhere in the kitchen on the floor or in boxes, near similar items if possible.

Cabinets, Closets and Drawers

6 Install space-saving products in cabinets, closets and drawers. Roll out baskets attached to closet shelves allow for more efficient use of space and less clutter, according to Elaine Bloom in an article titled "How to Organize a Small Space" on Apartments.com. Bloom also recommends securing a rack onto the back of closet or cabinet doors in which to store cookware lids or spices. Dividers allow for more organization when you must utilize every bit of drawer space.
7 Place food items you would like stored in closets, cabinets and drawers into their respective locations. Position infrequently used foods toward the back of storage compartments, and utilize the space-saving products to compactly group items. If food is packaged in unnecessarily large containers, transfer it to smaller canisters or bags.
8 Replace all the utensils, dishes, appliances, bake ware and cookware that will fit comfortably in remaining cabinet, closet and drawer space. Stack items when possible and place your most frequently used items in accessible locations, with infrequently used items placed toward the back of storage areas or on high shelves.

Counters

9 Replace bulky appliances with smaller versions or products that can be mounted underneath cabinets or on walls. This frees up counter space.
10 Purchase a crock to hold your favorite cooking utensils and keep it on the counter near the stove. This conserves drawer space and keeps your tools nearby while you cook.
11 Place other frequently used items on the counter. Position them logically. For example, place a knife block near your cutting board and a drying rack near the sink.

Floors, Walls and Other Surfaces

12 Purchase shelves on which to place items that cannot fit in other locations. Shelves may be mounted on walls or in cabinets. You may purchase shelving units and push them against walls or the side of your refrigerator.
13 Hang pots and pans from a rack positioned on the ceiling near your oven. Place your most frequently used pieces on the rack.
14 Store extra dishes, cookware and bake ware in a china cabinet positioned on your floor or mounted on a wall. Re-purpose an armoire to store kitchen supplies when cabinet space is limited. Large and awkwardly shaped kitchen items, such as cookie sheets and pizza stones, fit well in armoires once the clothing rods are removed, according to Bloom.
15 Place similar items, such as baking tools or an extra set of silverware, in baskets or bins. Store them on top of your refrigerator, on top of cabinets or shelving units, or underneath the lowest closet shelves.
16 Place magnetized hooks on your refrigerator to hold pot holders, paperwork, recipes and aprons.

There are a few questions you will need to answer before you purchase solar panels for a small house. Now that they have become an affordable option for many homeowners, there are many reputable dealers and manufacturers of solar panels. Many states offer financing incentives to residents who choose to purchase and install solar panels, and when you consider that a robust solar electric system can cost $20,000, those rebates can be a real help.

Instructions

1 Decide which system in your home you would like to replace with a solar-powered system. Which kind of power would you like to generate? Solar electric systems turn the sun's heat into electricity, but there are also systems available for heating water or generating heat for the home.
2 Make sure you have the right kind of roof to install solar panels. You will need at least 120 square feet, and a flat, south-facing roof is best. A sunny west- or east-facing roof can also produce a lot of power. If your roof is not an option for installation, you might choose a ground-mount, trellis or pergola-style application.
3 Make sure you get enough sun on your home during daylight hours to generate the power you need. Take a minute to view a solar insolation map to determine how many average hours of sun your area gets. Shade will prevent your panels from absorbing the light they need to generate power.
4 Choose a system with or without battery backup power. Systems without a battery backup will not generate electricity at night or in a power outage, and cloudy days will produce very little electricity. If you choose a system without a battery, your utility provider will supply you with electricity in those off-hours. A battery backup system stores energy and can provide the energy you need at night or during an outage or on a cloudy day.
5 Decide whether you want an aggressive, off-grid power system or only a partial----and less expensive----grid-tie system. If you have a small cabin in a secluded area, an off-grid system might be just what you need. Consult a solar power expert to design the right off-grid system for your power needs. Generally, houses without battery backups need to be tied to the power grid so they get the power they need when their system is down or cannot absorb light.

Household appliances make life simpler, more convenient and a lot easier for the majority of Americans. Refrigerators have changed the way people buy and store their food. Ovens have changed the way people cook their food. Dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers have changed the way people clean. These common household appliances exist in many homes across the U.S.

Refrigerator

The U.S. Energy Information Administration reports that, as of 2009, 99.9 percent of all U.S. households included a refrigerator. A refrigerator keeps perishable foods cool, thereby allowing foods in a household to last longer. Refrigerators vary by size from compact to large. Most refrigerators have a larger portion for basic cooling and a smaller portion for freezing. The freezer can sit on the top, bottom or side by side. With proper maintenance, a refrigerator can last an average of 20 years, according to the University of Illinois.

Oven

Many households have a combined oven and range unit. The oven has a large interior area for baking and the ability to heat foods to high degrees. Many ovens also have the option to broil foods, which provides an intense heat. The range has four smaller burners used for cooking with pans and griddles. Ovens and ranges can use either electricity or gas as a power source. The University of Illinois reports that an oven and range can last for up to 18 years with proper maintenance.

Dishwasher

A dishwasher replaces the need to hand wash and dry dishes. Dishwashers work by filling the cavity of the appliance with water, releasing the dishwashing detergent and running the dishes through several high-powered rinse cycles. Most dishwashers have the ability to run the water inside on either a cool or hot setting. Dishwashers also have the option of using heat to dry the dishes, or allowing them to air dry inside the appliance. Dishwashers last an average of 12 years with proper care, according to the University of Illinois.

Clothes Washer and Dryer

A clothes washer replaces hand washing. The clothes washer holds dirty clothing in a bin, and spins the clothing with a mixture of water and detergent. Most clothes washers have several settings that allow the user to increase or decrease the intensity of the cleaning cycles for different types of fabrics. Clothes washers also have different temperature settings. The dryer replaces the need to hang clothes on the line. The dryer uses electricity or gas to simultaneously heat and spin clothing until dry. Most dryers have multiple spin and heat settings. According to the University of Illinois, a clothes washer can last an average of 13 years, while a dryer can last an average of 18 years with proper maintenance.

Appliances serve many purposes within the modern home, and help homeowners complete a wide range of tiresome tasks. Some appliances, however, can become hazards if they are improperly installed or maintained. The most common appliance dangers are fire, electric shock and gas emissions. Learning about how appliances work and what dangers they may pose can help keep you safe while still enjoying their benefits.

Fire

Fire is a real danger in any household. If not caught quickly, it can destroy a house and even endanger nearby houses. Improperly wired appliances can cause shorts and sparks that lead to fire. Although these problems usually cause a fuse to blow or breaker to trip, in some situations this will not prevent a fire. Space heaters present another fire threat. Electric or gas space heaters can ignite any flammable items left too close to them. Keep space heaters at least three 3 feet away from boxes, clothing, drapes, paper, or anything else that could burn, and never leave space heaters running in an unoccupied room.

Electric Shock

Any appliance that uses electricity can deliver a dangerous or even fatal shock. This is most likely with appliances that feature exposed heating coils such as space heaters and toasters. Any electric appliance with a worn or broken cord also can deliver a shock. Check cords periodically for damage, and never let pets or children chew on or play with them. Never stick a knife or implement into a toaster without unplugging it first. Particularly if there are children in the household, unplug appliances that are not used for long periods, and put caps onto unused outlets.

Carbon Monoxide

Appliances that emit gas can release dangerous carbon monoxide if they are not properly vented. Appliances that may present this danger include furnaces, gas space heaters, clothes dryers, gas fireplaces and generators. Vent any of these appliances properly, and periodically inspect their vents to ensure they are unobstructed and working properly. Without effective venting, carbon monoxide can build up inside a home and potentially kill those inside. Your home should also be equipped with a carbon monoxide alarm that will alert you to dangerous levels of this potentially lethal gas.

When it comes time to dispose of your old appliances, there are a few things you need to consider. Many states have rules and regulations regarding appliance disposal, especially items like refrigerators, which have coolants and other chemicals that could seep into ground water if not properly taken care of. Learn what to do with your used appliances here.

Instructions

1 Donate the ones that are in good working order. If you're getting rid of an appliance simply because you want a different color or a newer model, your best bet is to give your old refrigerator or stove to someone who could really use it. Contact the local Salvation Army or Goodwill to find out where to drop off your appliances. You may also be eligible for a tax break by donating.
2 Put an ad on Craigslist (see Resources) or try the Sunday paper. There are plenty of people out there willing to take an old appliance off your hands in order to repair it or use it for parts. Many will haul it away free of charge.
3 Arrange to have the old one picked up when you buy a new appliance. Many appliance dealers have programs available under which they haul and dispose of your old appliance at no additional cost. Ask about this when picking out your new appliance.
4 Recycle. If you can't find someone to take an old appliance off your hands, you can usually dispose of it at your local recycling plant or landfill. Find out the rules in your area regarding chemicals and refrigerants to make sure you're doing things properly.

As more people are convinced that healthy eating is the way to go, they need to find alternatives to the stove and microwave. Convenient, small kitchen appliances like the home deep fryer don't promote a healthy lifestyle, but there are a number of cooking appliances that will make tasty, healthy food right on your kitchen countertop.

Tabletop Grill

Made famous by an outspoken former boxer, the tabletop grill has become a staple in many homes. This appliance works by heating two ridged metal plates. You set your food on one plate, then lower the lid onto the food. The hot plates cook the food, and the ridges allow melted fat to drip away from your meal. The result is a crispy, grilled meal with lower fat and calories than traditional frying, with a barbecue-grill taste you can have all year round.

Sandwich Maker

The electric sandwich maker comes and goes in popularity, often a favorite with families that have children or teenagers in the house. Place some bread on a metal surface, add the filling and another piece of bread, and close the lid. The sandwich maker toasts your sandwich while sealing the edges, creating a pocket sandwich much like those expensive frozen snacks, but much healthier because you're controlling the ingredients.

Slow Cooker

A boon to busy cooks everywhere, the slow cooker is extremely healthy as well as convenient. The concept behind slow cooking is that foods will cook until they are tender and flavors will meld, if you keep the food at a constant slow temperature for many hours. The result is tasty soups, stews and casseroles without a lot of added fat. Famous weight-loss companies even produce cookbooks for these cookers, since they are so easily adapted to a healthy lifestyle.

Steamer

Based on an age-old Chinese cooking method, the modern electric steamer takes advantage of the same concept. Put your food in the racks and fill the bottom of the steamer with a liquid, such as wine or water with herbs. The bottom of the appliance heats up and creates steam inside the chamber above. The hot steam cooks your food, keeping it moist and juicy and using absolutely no fat or oil to complete it. Many steamers have multiple layers of racks, making it possible to cook several courses of a meal at the same time.

Every electrical item draws a certain number of watts, the given unit for measuring energy consumption. If you are trying to determine how much wattage your house will pull over any period, you'll need to find out the wattage of each appliance. Each appliance can have wildly ranging wattages depending on the model, features and manufacturer, so the numbers listed here are just approximations from the U.S. Department of Energy.

Defining Wattage

A watt is a unit of power, specifically the amount of power produced by sending a one ampere current through a one volt electric potential. Wattage is then multiplied by the amount of time the power is flowing to determine watt-hours, or usually kilowatt-hours, which is what the electric company charges you for. If you don't know the wattage of any particular appliance, you can multiply the amperage, which has to be listed on the device, by 120, which is the standard voltage in the United States.

Kitchen Appliances

The kitchen is one of the main energy consumers of a house. A frost-free 16 cubic foot refrigerator will consume about 725 watts, and you can adjust that up or down slightly for larger or smaller refrigerators. A dishwasher is going to consume around 1,200 watts, but if you run the dishes through a drying cycle as well, this can jump to 2,400 watts. A coffee maker, toaster and toaster oven will all consume between 800 and 1,400 watts. Microwave ovens can consume as few as 750 watts, and they can also reach up into the 2,000 range, depending on the power of the model.

Living Room Appliances

You might think of your TV as one of the main energy hogs in your house, but even a big 50-inch projection TV will only pull about 170 watts. A flat screen TV will only use about 120 watts and your DVD player will only use between 20 and 25. A stereo system can range between 70 and 400 watts, depending on the number of speakers and features. A desktop computer will consume a little less than 300 watts, with over half of the being the monitor. A laptop computer will only consume around 50 watts.

Other Appliances

Appliances that create heat are some of the biggest energy users. A clothes dryer will consume between 1,800 and 5,000 watts, a hair dryer will consume between 1,200 and 1,875 watts and a clothes iron will consume between 1,000 and 1,800 watts. Your water heater is probably the biggest consumer in your house, with most using between 4,500 and 5,500 watts. Your clothes washer will only consumer between 350 and 500 watts, and your vacuum cleaner will use between 1,000 and 1,440 watts.

Additional Power Considerations

Two huge considerations need to be made when determining your overall power needs: the reactive load requirements and low-power draws. A reactive load is the amount of wattage an appliance will draw when it has to start up a motor. Once the motor is running, the appliance uses its normal wattage, but when it is starting up it draws up to double the amount of wattage. Low power drains, sometimes called ghost loads, occur when appliances are in standby or ready mode and still draw some power. For example, you microwave might need 1,500 watts while it is running, but if you only use it for two minutes a day, that's not a lot of power. However, it can also draw between two and three watts while in standby mode. This constant draw of power, spread over many appliances, can add up.

Converting 110 volts to 220 can be a minor or a major event; or not necessary at all. Your souvenir clock runs on 220. But in your house, only the dryer and the stove use 220. You want to put it in the bedroom, but it has only 110 sockets. In another instance, you've finished your 3-year project in Peru, and now you're going home. Will you be able to move your major appliances to the United States?

House Wiring

American homes have 220 volts at 60 Hertz coming into the house, entering via three wires, two sides of 110 each and a neutral. The 220 appliances in your home operate on both sides of the 110, making 220. Almost everything else works on either side of the 110 and neutral. Most other countries do not divide the phases, and also operate at 50 Hertz rather than 60.You will need to take the frequency into consideration for your conversion.

Transformers

Transformers are made of two coils of wire placed near each other, the ratio of which determines the rate of conversion. And the directions are reversible. A ratio of 2 to 1 doubles in one direction and halves in the other. But you must also consider wattage. A small 50 watt transformer works for appliances like shavers and clocks, but you need higher wattage for hair dryers, curling irons or larger appliances. Price of transformers increases with wattage, and ranges from under $10 up to several hundred. But transformers cannot change the frequency--60 Hertz in will always give you 60 Hertz out.

Small Appliances

For small appliances up to 50 or 60 watts, you can buy a converter and plug it directly into a 110 volt wall socket and then plug your small 220 volt appliance into the converter. Be careful that you do not exceed the wattage rating of the transformer. Look on your appliance for a wattage rating. Also, since you cannot change the frequency, items like clocks designed to run of 50 Hertz may run faster on 60 Hertz. This may not be true with digital clocks. Go to dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog10_0.html to see an example of a small converter.

Large Appliances

Larger appliances require larger transformers. Go to the above link to see some examples. But be careful. Major appliances designed to work on 220 volts and 50 Hertz may work using transformers. But they may not work well. Dryer motors and refrigerator compressors may run at different speeds and overheat or wear out faster. And the number of wire connections may be different. So in making your decisions to move, consider the cost of shipping, the cost of the transformer and the risk of a shortened lifespan or failure of your appliance.

Conversion Not Needed

More sophisticated items may not need conversion. Modern technology takes into consideration the shrinking globe we live on, and is designing many items to operate on all systems. Examples would include most cell phone and camera chargers and laptops, and may also include TV sets and desktops. Look on your equipment label or literature to find out. A cell phone charger purchased in South America may say, "Entrada: 100-240V 50/60Hz 0.1A." This will work almost anywhere in the world without conversion.

When converting a storage shed into living space, there are a few things you should consider. Fitting a house into 120 square feet or less isnt as hard as you may initially think, as long as you pay attention to detail. You can easily fit a bathroom and kitchen into your living space if you plan accordingly. The main goal when planning to live in small spaces is comfort. You will want to maximize your comfort and eliminate as many big house problems as you can. Installing quality flooring, premium insulation, and capitalizing on space that is overlooked in big home construction will have you well on your way to a comfortable living space.

Instructions

1 Install R-15 or higher insulation in your storage shed. A small space can seem even smaller if it is uncomfortable. Installing premium insulation will help to control the atmosphere inside the shed and ultimately make you more comfortable.
2 Install wiring for the appliances you will use inside the shed. Remember, the living space, while small, will house many appliances that any normal home would have. These appliances need to be placed on a few separate breakers to prevent electric problems.
3 Cover the walls in waterproof cement board such as PermaBase instead of the less expensive plasterboard. Condensation can build up in a small space and cause a huge problem down the road. PermaBase is a type of sheeting that is moisture resistant and will eliminate the dangers of condensation.
4 Paint the interior with a light-colored high gloss paint. Light colors make a room feel larger, and high gloss paints reflect light to eliminate a dark and dreary interior. Operable skylights will help with lighting and ventilation issues.
5 Install a quality waterproof floor, and use area rugs where you have a need for carpet. A leak is a disaster in any home, and in a storage shed conversion, a leak can ruin the flooring in a short amount of time. Its easier to use a wet/dry vacuum and launder a few area rugs than to move everything out and replace the flooring.
6 Plan for small space living. A small space wont seem as small if every detail is planned. Consider building bathroom and kitchen walls that have shelving built in that faces the outside living space. A wall built on the back of the shed for the kitchen and bathroom space can easily double as shelving for other items.
7 Build a sleeping loft above lower walls when possible. Sleeping lofts are ideal in small spaces because they free up the walking space below. A sleeping loft can free as much as 56 square feet. While this may not seem like a lot of space, in an area that is 120 square feet, a sleeping loft can be the difference between comfortable and cramped.

Design

Building a small house from an existing garage begins with space planning and design. Adding a second story to the garage to increase the overall square footage of the house may be an option, but the costs for a project this size can be significant. Depending on where you live, new construction averages between $80 and $200 per square foot. There are additional costs for removing the old roof and preparing the garage structure to bear the weight of the second floor that will further increase the overall costs. It is much more cost effective to allocate the existing space for living essentials, like a bathroom, small kitchen, bedroom and living area. Before you begin building a small house from a garage, obtain all of the necessary permits and building code specifications from your local office.

Walls, Plumbing and Electrical

Construct the walls for the small house according to the design layout. There is no need for load-bearing walls since the garage structure is already intact. If your garage flooring is concrete, you may wish to build a wooden platform floor to lay carpeting or hardwoods. Build the walls separating the rooms with 2-by-4s and 2-by-6s as outlined in your local building codes. Once the wall structures are in place, you can add the plumbing and the electrical. The garage may already have some type of electrical power, but this will need to be upgraded to handle the additional power. Look at green alternatives for your power source such as solar panels and tankless hot water heaters. These choices may cost a bit more up front, but they do pay for themselves in the long run. Install the wiring for the power and the pipes for the plumbing in accordance with local building codes. It is more cost effective to place the kitchen and bathroom in close proximity so that you can run fewer and shorter pipes for the water source. Once the wires and pipes are complete, add Sheetrock to the walls and install the fixtures in the bathroom.

Finishing Touches

Transforming a garage into a house may allow for only small interior rooms, but they can still be comfortable, attractive and eco-friendly. Select and install cabinets and countertops for your kitchen that are made from recycled materials. Architectural salvage yards offer a wide selection of materials that can easily be refurbished for your small home. Bamboo hardwood flooring is a beautiful renewable resource and can be placed throughout the home. Add warm colors to the walls and sparsely placed furnishings to make the home seem larger than it is. Add vinyl siding to the exterior of the garage for a fresh, completed home.

A watt is a different measure than one that uses time as a component. For example, the "mile per hour" or "revolutions per minute" both measure activity against a given time frame, in their cases, hours and minutes. A watt is the measure of how much energy is being drawn through the electrical system to power an individual unit. The kilowatt-hour is the measurement used by power companies to know how much total wattage a building used over a period of time.

Reactive vs. Resistive

Two different standards need to be applied when discussing the watt usage of appliances. The first is the reactive load, or the draw on the system when the unit is first powered up. This can be significantly higher than the resistive, or running load. For example, a 10,000 BTU window air conditioner needs 1,500 watts to run, but 2,200 watts to start up. This is important because when a home is using an emergency generator for power, the generator must have the ability to not only power the necessary appliances when running, but also enough extra power to account for start-ups.

Large Appliances

Appliances are normally divided into large and small categories, with the assumption that large appliances use more power. This is not always true. Similarly sized appliances may have a widely different draw, and small appliances are often heavy energy users. A clothes washer uses 1,200 reactive and resistance watts, while the matching electric dryer uses 6,750 reactive and 5,400 resistance watts. The difference is that the dryer is converting the electricity to heat, which is always power intensive.

Kitchen Appliances

Other typical kitchen appliances include an energy-efficient refrigerator and freezer at 1,200 watts reactive and almost 200 resistance. A microwave is an example of a unit rated at one level but actually using more energy because of the natural inefficiency of how motors work. A 1,000 watt microwave puts out 1,000 watts of power, but requires 1,500 watts to do so. An electric range requires 2,100 watts.

Small Appliances

Small appliances can range from a few watts to a substantial amount depending upon how much heat they generate. Small cooking appliances such as an electric fry pan require 1,200 watts and a coffee maker 600 watts. Because a slow cooker uses minimal heat, it only needs less than 300 watts, whereas a deep fryer that generates high heat needs 1,800 watts. On the far other end, an electric clock/radio for the kitchen may only need 5 watts.

Restaurant kitchens have appliances similar to those found in the majority of home kitchens, but larger and durable enough to crank out hundreds of meals a day. Professionals do use some appliances, particularly the small wares variety, in the same way home cooks do. The types of appliances found in the restaurant kitchen depend on the style and quantity of food made.

Ovens

Restaurants generally have two types of ovens installed to carry out the business of roasting and baking foods-conventional and convection ovens. Conventional ovens heat foods from a heating element built in to the top or the bottom of the unit while convection ovens are designed with a fan in the back of the oven that blows air around the foods, creating a consistently even heat. Some cooks favor conventional ovens for cookies and casseroles while preferring convection ovens for breads and roasts.

Range and Griddles

Most restaurant ranges come with ovens installed underneath, much like a standard home unit. The difference in professional units is the size of the range, with some employing six or eight burners instead of the standard four of the home appliance. Some ranges are equipped with large griddle surfaces either half of the unit or complete the entire surface, depending on the kinds of foods cooked in that kitchen. Restaurants with a breakfast menu will use a large griddle while pizza restaurants typically have no use for them.

Fryers and Grills

Two types of fryers are available for restaurants that serve fried foods, including countertop units for small batches of foods and the larger deep-fryer units for restaurants that serve large amounts of fried foods. Larger units also typically come with two wells so different batches of foods, like French fries or onion rings, can be made at one time.
Grills for preparing steaks, hamburgers and vegetables are also available as either countertop or stand-alone units and are designed to work either as a charbroiler or with radiant heat.

Mixers and Slicers

Restaurants that make their own bread and pastries typically use a large mixer for mixing large amounts of dough and batter. Standard sizes include 20-, 40-, 60- and 80-quart mixers. These have variable speeds and attachments such as a dough hook, whisk and paddle.
Professional cooks also use food slicers for slicing deli meats, cheeses and vegetables for sandwiches, buffet displays and garnishes.

Small Wares

Professional kitchens use blenders and food processors for preparing sauces, dressings, dips, juices and other liquid-based foods. Restaurant food processors typically run into the two- and three-quart sizes for making large batches of foods. Other small appliances include scales for accurately measuring weights, toasters for sandwiches, and a microwave for quick thawing some foods. Restaurants that make larger batches of toast sometimes use a larger toasting unit that toasts several pieces of bread at one time.

With the prevalence of electronic items in the home, you may be worried about the radiation levels from electro-magnetic fields (EMFs), especially if you have a pacemaker or are pregnant. Although the EPA notes that there is no "safe" level of radiation, it's best to limit your exposure when possible. Testing inside your home is easy with an EMF Gauss meter you can purchase at home centers or electronics stores.

Instructions

1 Place new batteries in your Gauss meter to ensure accurate readings.
2 Zero-out the reading on the meter. Depending on your meter, you may see the needle bounce back and forth slightly, or may see the display waver between -1 and +1; this is typical, especially on less expensive meters. More expensive models have several reset buttons to ensure accurate readings.
3 Make sure the appliance is plugged in and running normally. For example, turn the TV and DVD player on, or microwave something briefly to make sure your gauge registers normal operations.
4 Position the Gauss reader next to the appliance and draw it across the surface slowly. Depending on your meter, you may see a digital readout or a range indicating the level of radiation.
5 Test near electrical outlets in your home, and even small appliances in your home, such as a digital alarm clock.
6 Reposition appliances with radiation around your home to limit your exposure time to high EMFs. For example, place your digital alarm clock farther away from your bed, since you spend so many hours sleeping. Block off rooms with high EMF readings, if possible, or spend as little time in the room as possible.